GROOMING BASICS
Tools & Equipment needed:
- pin brush
- metal comb
- grooming rake
- nail clippers & “Quik Stop”
- scissors (beauty supply store for good pair)
- spray bottle
Note: Never shave a Sheltie’s coat! The double coat insulates against heat and cold. (Exception would be severe skin problems)
Brushing:
Brushing is the most important part of Sheltie grooming. If done right, it helps keep the coat clean and healthy; if done improperly, it will break and damage the coat.
A thorough, weekly brushing is necessary from the skin out to help control shedding and keep the coat and skin healthy. Teaching your Sheltie to lie on its side will make brushing easier.
Lightly mist the coat as you brush with a waterless shampoo such as “Self-Rinse Plus” (mail order from Cherrybrook 800-524-0820 www.Cherrybrook.com) to condition the coat, remove dirt, and keep static electricity from forming as you brush. Even misting with water will help control static and fly-away hair.
Line brushing is the only way to thoroughly remove the loose undercoat. Just running a brush over the top of the coat will not effectively remove any of the loose undercoat. If the loose undercoat is not regularly brushed out, it can lead to severe matting and even skin infections. Mats hold moisture -- this leads to skin infections.
Line Brushing (use pin brush or rake):
Body
- Part hair the length of the Sheltie just below the spine ~~ mist coat
- Brush against (away from you) the coat
- Part next section about 1/2” down and repeat brushing against coat
- Part, mist, & brush line-by-line down side of Sheltie
- Fur around neck is also separated in sections and line brushed
- Roll Sheltie onto opposite side and repeat the above steps
Rear End
- “skirt” can be thinned with thinning shears if too thick
- Brush skirt in sections -- the skirt is a little more challenging to brush out, but don’t neglect this part!
- Trim fur around anus to help keep your Sheltie’s skirt clean from fecal matter.
Note: I f your Sheltie is doing the “Boot Scootin’ Boogie” across your carpet or yard, it may either have a dirty butt or possibly blocked anal glands. Dirty butt can be wiped with a Baby Wipe or damp paper towel. Blocked anal glands need vet care to avoid a possible infection.
Ears:
- Use a fine-tooth metal comb to comb fine hair behind ears and feathers on the legs
- Gently comb out any mats behind ears
- If mats must be cut out, be extremely careful not to accidentally clip the dog!
- Use a dab of alcohol on a Q-tip or cotton ball to clean inside the ear. Never probe deeply or let alcohol run down into the ear.
- When bathing your Sheltie, be sure to put a cotton ball in each ear to avoid getting water down into the inner ear
Feet:
-Trim excess hair from bottom of the pads (excess hair collects dirt and gravel -- not only uncomfortable for the Sheltie, but messy for you)
-Shape the foot into an “oval” by trimming around the outside edge of the foot ---- taaa-daaa! Beautiful tootsies!
Toenails:
Long toenails allow dirt and mud to accumulate between the toes. The foot “splays,” and sure footing becomes difficult. Long toenails also force the Sheltie’s weight onto its heels -- this leads to the foot becoming tender and breaking down.
Nails should be short enough to not touch the floor when walking. Trim every two weeks to keep nails the right length. If you are hearing your Sheltie’s nails as it walks across the floor, it’s time for a trim! Trim in small slivers if nail is black so you don’t cut into the quick of the nail. If the nail is white, you can see where the quick begins.
If you should clip into the quick and it starts bleeding, don’t panic! If you don’t make a big deal out of it, your Sheltie won’t either. Apply some Quik Stop (styptic powder) to the end of the bleeding nail and hold until nail quits bleeding. Corn starch will also work in a pinch.
If you are unsure how to trim nails, ask a groomer, vet or rescue volunteer to give you a “quick” lesson! Please don’t neglect your Sheltie’s foot health just because you are afraid to clip the nails.
Nail Trimming Pictures Dogs Naturally Magazine
Bathing:
Shelties should be bathed every 6-8 weeks! Use a good quality dog shampoo, not human shampoo. Dogs have a different PH than humans.
If you decide to have a professional groom your Sheltie, we recommend:
Little House of Dogs
1050 N. Kirkwood
Kirkwood, MO
314-822-2275
created for SCSR
by Janice Mitchell
10 Mar 2015